"DIY PROP MAKING - GORE"
Guts and gore are fundamental elements in a gruesomely fun horror film. The folks at DDCP know that. They also know that not everyone has access to Tom Savini…
So for those of us in lower tax brackets (or just want to work in as frugal a manner as possible), they’ve put together a fantastic, comprehensive DIY video that any starving artist will be able to follow. So check out the video below, and get to painting the town red!
Need a simple how-to on making a cheap plastic skull look gross? Perhaps give your film a shot in the production value arm? Want a cheap way to really spook up your film, your home, for the holidays?
This simple DIY guide brought to you by Dreams For Dead Cats Productions and will help introduce you to one inexpensive and resourceful method of making a cheap plastic skeleton part look realistic - with decay - using simple materials that are inexpensive and easy to use.
Things you will need:
cheap plastic skeleton parts
disposable table cover (cheap party table cloths from the Dollar store are great!)
latex gloves (optional for clean freaks)
cotton balls (jumbo recommended)
tape (masking tape works best)
cardboard (toilet paper rolls,
plastic wrap (optional)
hair dryer (optional for fast drying)
liquid latex, a cheap brush (basting or foam brushes from the dollar store will do)
cups/bowls for latex & water
various paint for desired effect, colors will vary based on desired outcome (burnt umber, burnt sienna, black, red, and magenta, recommended)
medium sized paint brushes, art medium, palette (a plate will work)
a sealant or fixative (optional for preservation of prop)
fun background music
Step 1: Prep your work station
Set up a fun playlist so you can work in a groovy atmosphere, and make sure your work station is ready to go with all the materials you need with a covered surface so you can get good and messy!
Then, break out the latex, cotton, and toilet paper. I recommend prepping your cotton and toilet paper pieces ahead of time to save you time and trouble while working on your prop.
Step 2: Enhance your plastic prop & make it gory!
Begin by applying latex to the prop. Focus on the areas where the plastic is joined together with harsh edges or there’s an obnoxious branded stamp. You’ll want to conceal those areas.
Tip: to make your latex go further, you can always start with a round of covering your prop in a light glue and water base and paper mache some of the prop
Use a mix of the cotton pieces, toilet paper, and spider-webbing to add texture as desired. Think about where muscle tissue would be. You can sculpt areas using the latex and toilet paper/cotton to define areas that you want to build up and give a specific shape to. Gently apply the cotton and webbing and pull it in desired directions for gnarly effects. Secure placement with more latex. The paint will react differently with the materials and help add depth and texture, so go nuts with varying materials!
Usually cheap skeleton parts at a Dollar Store are on the small end (either just a hand, or just a compromised forearm. You can extend parts by using a paper cache method with a little cardboard, tape, and toilet paper to alter the shape and length of the skeleton arm
Switch between using the toilet paper and cotton based on the desired outcome—do you want a cleaner prop with the bone showing? Has this corpse part been sitting around for a while and super decayed? Was a lot of flesh left on it to rot? These are important questions. And how realistic the prop is is entirely up to you!
Step 3: Paint the Prop!
Paint the prop to really bring it to life! Acrylic paints work great.
Colors I recommend are burnt sienna, burnt umber, black, brilliant red, magenta, and bronze yellow. Set up your paints and water cup and get started.
With my props I’ve decided that they’ve all been sitting around decaying for a bit after being gnawed on by a creepy monster.
For an aged look, start with a brown paint wash. Liberally apply paint with a brush, adding water and paint as needed. Use paper towels to dab away and rub paint around the prop. You’ll see how the latex and cotton areas absorb the paint differently.
Then just keep painting away until your prop has reached the finish line in all its gory beauty!
You may want to consider using a fixative or sealant to keep your prop in good condition—this is optional.
More tutorials at www.dreamsfordeadcats.com
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PREVIOUS EPISODE (TENTACLE PROPS)
DIY PROP MAKING: MAKING TENTACLES WITH DREAMS FOR DEAD CATS
Things you will need:
Disposable table cover (cheap party table cloths from the Dollar store are great!)
Gloves (optional for those clean freaks out there)
Plastic trash bags
Release agent (vaseline works great)
Cardboard pieces (toilet paper rolls, party hats lying around, case in recycling from your poison)
Glue or art medium & water ( can also use flour and water for tradition paper mache method)
Cotton balls (optional but work great to fill gaps when wet with glue and water)
1 ply toilet paper or newspaper (wet paper bags or newspaper also work great)
Hair dryer (optional for fast drying)
Liquid latex, a cheap brush (basting or foam brushes from the dollar store will do)
Cups/bowls for latex, glue, & water
Stuffing, string/rope/tubing (lightweight items that will let the tentacle retain movement—have any cheap feathers, etc.?)
Stuffing tool (look around the house…ruler? End of a feather duster or broom?)
Various paint for desired effect, colors will vary based on desired outcome (I’m keeping mine fleshy using burnt umber, black, red, magenta & yellow)
Small & medium sized paint brushes, art medium, palette (a plate will work)
A sealant or fixative (optional for preservation of prop)
Fun background music (optional but highly recommended)